Adventures into Anatomical Crochet

Saturday, March 7, 2026

Atomic orbitals

This pattern details how to make the shapes of all of the atomic orbitals found in atoms: The s-orbital, p-orbitals, d-orbitals, and f-orbitals. These orbitals describe the shape of the electron clouds surrounding the nuclei of all atoms.I have included a lot more scientific explanation about this in my pattern, but if you'd prefer to watch a video instead, I recommend this Crash Course video.

Difficulty:

Easy

You will need:

A 2.5mm hook
dk yarn in yellow, purple, turquoise, and green
Toy stuffing
A darning needle
A pair of scissors

What are atomic orbitals?
As explained in my atom on the structure of an atom, electrons orbit the nucleus of an atom in specific shells (also known as energy levels) that, in the most simple model, are represented as spheres around the outside of the atom. However, in reality its a little more complicated than this.

Pauli's exclusion principle and principle quantum numbers
Pauli's exclusion principle (a law relating to quantum mechanics) states that no two electrons within the same system (in this case within the same atom) can have the same 4 quantum numbers. These are the principle quantum number, angular momentum quantum number, magnetic quantum number, and spin quantum number. This may sound a little dull but bear with me.

The principle quantum number refers to the shell of the electron. Each subsequent shell will be able to hold a greater number of electrons than the previous one, the reason for this should soon become apparent.

Within each shell there will be a number of different sub-shells, which is what the angular momentum quantum number refers to. There are 4 possible types of subshells: s, p, d, and f. In this pattern these are represented with different colours: s is yellow, p is purple, d is turquoise, and f is green. The first shell will contain only the s subshell, the second will contain an s subshell and a p subshell, the third an s, a p, and a d subshell, and finally the fourth will contain all 4 of the possible subshells. So far we have not been able to discover or create an atom with a greater number of electrons than this, since the number of nucleons (see my atomic structure pattern) required to balance out the charge on the electrons makes the atom highly unstable.

Within each subshell there will be a certain number of orbitals. This is what determines the magnetic quantum number of the electron. Each of the structures created in this pattern represents a certain type of orbital. As you should see when you start to make this pattern (or look closely at the images), the s subshell contains only one orbital, the p subshell contains 3, the d subshell contains 5 and the f subshell contains 7.

Each orbital can hold exactly 2 electrons. These electrons must have opposite spin, such that they can overcome the electrostatic repulsion they exert on each other because of their charge. This is what determines the spin quantum number. This spin of an electron can be either +1/2 or -1/2; think of it simply as an intrinsic property of that electron. You should now be able to see why the number of electrons a shell can hold will increase with increasing shell number. Each orbital can hold a maximum of 2 electrons, and these orbitals make up the subshells. There are more subshells in each subsequent shell (and each added subshell contains more orbitals than the last), so the number of electrons it can hold will increase

So, at its most basic level, an atomic orbital can be defined as a region in space that can hold up to 2 electrons with opposite spin.

The s orbital
For the s orbital:
With yellow make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (21sc)
Round 4: (sc6, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (24sc)
Rounds 5 - 8: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 9: (sc6, sc2tog) 3 times (21sc)
Round 10: (sc5, sc2tog) 3 times (18sc)
Round 11: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times
Round 12: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off
Stuff firmly

The P orbitals

For the P orbitals (make 3):

With purple make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (21sc)
Rounds 4 -8: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 9: (sc5, sc2tog) 3 times (18sc)
Round 10: (sc4, sc2tog) 3 times (15sc)
Round 11: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 12: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 13: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times (6sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 14: sc in each st
Round 15: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)
Round 16: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 17: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Round 18: (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (18sc)
Round 19: (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (21sc)
Rounds 20 - 24: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 25: (sc5, sc2tog) 3 times (18sc)
Round 26: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times (12sc)
Round 27: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off

The probabilistic nature of electrons
When scientists begun to study electrons in great detail they realised that they exhibited some very strange behaviour. Their weirdness manifested in many forms, but one consequence of this is that electrons don't follow nice trajectories like was imagined in the most basic model of the atom. Instead they move around somewhat randomly, which brings about an alternative definition of the orbital. In quantum mechanics, the orbital is defined as being a region in space where there is a 95% probability of finding an electron. The most likely place that the electron will be located will be along the boundary of the orbital.

The d orbitals

For the first type of orbital (make 4):

With turquoise make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)
Rounds 3 - 7: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 8: (sc4, sc2tog) 3 times (15sc)
Round 9: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 10: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 11: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times (6sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 12: (sc, sc2tog) twice (4sc)
Round 13: sc in each st
Round 14: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) twice (6sc)
Round 15: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)
Round 16: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 17: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Round 18: (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (18sc)
Rounds 19 - 23: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 24: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times (12sc)

Stuff firmly
Round 25: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off

For the lobes (make 2):

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

For the second type of orbital:
For the ring:
ch16
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in every following chain st to make a loop (16sc)
Round 2: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times (20sc)
Round 3: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st, sc3, make 2sc in the following st, sc2, make 2sc in the next st) twice (26sc)
Round 4: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st, sc4, make 2sc in the following st, sc3, make 2sc in the next st) twice (32sc)
Round 5: (sc3, sc2tog, sc4, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog) twice (26sc)
Round 6: (sc2, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog) twice
Round 7: (sc3, sc2tog) 4 times (20sc)
Fasten off

Sew the cast on and cast off edges together

For the main section:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Slip the ring onto this main section, as shown below

Round 15: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)
Round 16: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 17: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Slide the ring onto this section, as shown below
Round 18: (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (18sc)
Rounds 19 - 23: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 24: (sc, sc2tog) 6 times (12sc)
Round 25: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off

The f orbitals

For the first type of orbital (make 2):
For the main section (make 2):

With green make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 3 - 6: (4 rounds)
Round 7: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 8: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 9: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times (6sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 10: (sc, sc2tog) twice (4sc)
Round 11: sc in each st
Round 12: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) twice (6sc)
Round 13: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)
Round 14: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 15: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 16 - 19: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Round 20: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 21: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off

For the lobes (make 4):

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Sew the centres of these sections together, as shown below

For the 2nd type of orbital (make 4):
For the main section:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 3 - 6: (4 rounds)
Round 7: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 8: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 9: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times (6sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 10: (sc, sc2tog) twice (4sc)

Sew two of these lobes to the sides of the main section. as you did for the previous type of orbital. After this sew the two remaining lobes to the sides, next to the ones you have already sewn in place.

For the third type of orbital:
For the rings (make 2):
ch14
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in every following chain st to make a loop (14sc)
Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st, sc2, make 2sc itn eh next st, sc, make 2sc in the next st) twice (20sc)
Round 3: sc in each st
Round 4: (sc, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog) twice (14sc)
Fasten off
Sew the cast on and cast off edges together

For the main section:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 3 - 6: (4 rounds)
Round 7: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)
Round 8: (sc2, sc2tog) 3 times (9sc)
Round 9: (sc, sc2tog) 3 times (6sc)
Stuff firmly
Round 10: (sc, sc2tog) twice (4sc)
Round 11: sc in each st
Round 12: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) twice (6sc)
Round 13: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (9sc)
Round 14: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (12sc)
Round 15: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times (15sc)
Rounds 16 - 19: (4 rounds) sc in each st
Push the two rings onto the centre of this section, like you did for the final d orbital
Round 20: (sc3, sc2tog) 3 times (12sc)

Stuff firmly
Round 21: sc2tog 6 times (6sc)
Fasten off

That's all from this pattern - I hope you have found it interesting and informative. If you have any questions please feel free to email them to lhodginscrochet@gmail.com. You're very welcome to sell finished products, but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as you own. Thank you!

References:
libretexts.org

Saturday, March 1, 2025

Thalamus and hypothalamus

The thalamus and hypothalamus together form a part of the brain known as the diencephalon, which resides at the centre of the brain. This pattern in one in a series of pattern that fit together to form a life-sized human brain, and also includes details on how to make the optic nerve. I have already published the pattern for the cerebellum/brainstem and the ventricles/corpus collosum.

Note that the thalamus/ hypothamus are shown in green in the image above, with the optic nerve in gold. The blue section is the ventricles.

Difficulty:

Easy - difficult

The main difficulty comes from the fiddlyness of the hypothalamus

You will need:

A 2.5mm crochet hook
A 1mm crochet hook
A 0.8mm crochet hook (optional)
Anchor creativa fino 4ply cotton in green
Rico essentials #10 cotton in emerald and gold
Polyester toy stuffing
A darning needle for sewing up

For each of the thalami (make 2):
With green 4ply yarn and a 2.5mm crochet hook make a magic loop with 5sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (10sts)
Round 2: sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc2, make 2sc in the following st, sc (12sts)
Round 3: sc6, make 2sc in the next st, sc3, make 2sc in the following st, sc (14sts)
Round 4: sc7, make 2sc in the next st, sc3, make 2sc in the following st, sc2 (16sts)
Round 5: sc9, make 2sc in the next st, sc4, make 2sc in the following st, sc (18sts)
Rounds 6 - 10: (5 rounds) sc in each st
Round 11: sc, sc3tog, sc, sc3tog, sc2, sc3tog, sc, sc3tog, sc (10sts)
Stuff firmly
Round 12: sc2tog 5 times (5sts)
Fasten off

For the centre bit:
With the green 4ply and 2.5mm hook ch6
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in each of the following 5 chain sts to make a loop (6sts)
Fasten off

Sew this between the two lobes to connect them. It should be positioned slightly closer to the magic loop end compared to where you fastened off.

(ignore the optic nerve for the minute-we'll come to that later)

Note that if you intend to make a complete brain, make the ventricles first. After this you should sew the connecting section to one side of the thalamus, before threading it through the hole in the centre of the ventricles and sewing the other end to the other thalamus (see images below)

For the hypothalamus:

With a 1mm crochet hook and emerald #10 yarn ch4
Round 1: sc in the 2nd chain st from hook and the next chain st. Make 3sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in the back of the previous chain st you crocheted into. Make 2sc in the back of the first chain st you crocheted into (8sc)
Round 2: Make 2sc in the first st, sc2, make 3hdc in the next st, sc2, make 2sc in each of the last 2sts (13sts)
Round 3: Slip1, make 3hdc in the next st, sc3, ch1, make 2hdc in the following st, ch1 sc3, make 2hdc in the next st, slip2, make 3hdc in the last st (21sts(including the chain sts))
Round 4: Sc in each st
Round 5: (Note that this is slightly more than 1 round. The number of stitches is the number you should have after the round is complete) Sc7, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc7, sc3tog (17sc)
Round 6: Sc8, ch6, skip the remaining sts of this round
Round 7: Sc6, sc3tog between the next 2sts and following chain st, sc in the next 5 chain sts (12sc)
Round 8: Sc5, sc3tog, sc4 (10sc)
Round 9: make 4hdc in the first st, sc3, sc3tog, sc3 (11sts)
Round 10: Sc2, make 2sc in each of the next 2sts, sc3, sc3tog, sc (11sts)
Round 11: Sc, sc5tog, sc, sc2tog twice (5sts)
Fasten off

Round 5: Ch6, then sc in the 2nd st after the last st you crocheted into on round 4. Sc in the next 7sts

Round 6: Sc in the first 5 chain sts of the last round, then sc3tog between the last chain st and the following 2sts. Sc in the next 6sts (12sc)
Round 7: Sc4, sc3tog, sc5 (10sc)
Round 8: Sc3, sc3tog, sc3, make 4hdc in the last st (11sts)
Round 9: Sc2, sc3tog, sc3, make 2sc in each of the next 2sts, sc (11sts)
Round 10: Sc, sc2tog twice, sc, sc5tog (5sts)
Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to row 4 to one of the sts you haven't crocheted into yet.

Row 5: Sc in this st. ch1, turn
Rows 6 - 9: (4 rows) Sc in this st. ch1, turn

Row 10: sc in this st
Fasten off

Sew the end you just fastened off to the other st you haven't crocheted into in row 4, then stuff lightly and sew the sides of this bit you just made to the chain sts you made of row 5, as shown below

Sew to the front of the thalamus (the end closest to where you sewed the connecting part). The cast-on chain should be on the side furthest away from the thalamus, as shown below.

Front-on view

The optic nerve is an optional extra., which you can choose to add if you wish. I am also planning to included this design in a future pattern I publish detailing how to make all of the cranial nerves, so if you're planning to make the whole brain you don't need to worry about making this yet.

For the optic nerve:

With gold #10 yarn and 0.8mm hook make a magic loop with 6sc

Rounds 1 - 2: (2 rounds) sc in each st

Round 3: sc2tog, sc4 (5sc)

Round 4: sc2tog, sc3 (4sc)

Rounds 5 - 8: (4 rounds) sc in each st

Rounds 9 - 10: (2 rounds) slip2, hdc2

Rounds 11 - 15: (5 rounds) sc in each st

---

Fasten off neatly

Repeat as before up to ---

Round 16: sc3, sc in the 'new' st of the first section you made, sc in the next 2sts (6sc)

Round 17: sc in the first 3sts of the last round, ch1

Round 18: slip the first 2sts of last round, then hdc in the next st and chain st (4sts)

Rounds 19 - 21: (3 rounds) sc in each st

Fasten off

Rejoin yarn to round 16 to the st after the last st you crocheted in before you made the ch1 on round 17

Round 17: Sc in this st and the next 2sts, ch1

Round 18: slip2, hdc2

Rounds 19 - 21: (3 rounds) sc in each st

Fasten off

Sew the ends of this nerve to the outer edges of the thalami as shown below. (The hypothalamus isn't shown in these images but the principal is the same)

That's all for this pattern, I hope you have enjoyed it! If you have any questions about this or any of my other patterns please don't hesitate to get in touch - you can leave a comment below or contact me via my Ravelry or Instagram (Instagram is best if you're hoping for a speedy reply). You can also email me at lhodginscrochet@gmail.com if you prefer :)

As always you are very welcome to sell finished products but please don't re-post this pattern or claim it as your own. Thank you!

Thursday, June 13, 2024

DNA mobile

This pattern is for a mobile containing a DNA helix along with the 4 bases that make up DNA. It also contains the pattern to make Uracil (a base-like molecule found in RNA).

DNA carries the genetic information that codes for all of the proteins that make up your body and allow it to function. The DNA model in the centre is approximately to scale, with a scale factor of 3x10^7. I've also included a lot of information on the science behind DNA intermixed with the pattern if you're interested.

Difficulty:

Easy - medium

You will need:

A 2mm crochet hook
Dk yarn in purple, yellow, turquoise, dark pink, light pink, black, dark blue, and a scrap of white (although you're free to choose whatever colours do want for the base pairs)
An embroidery hoop
Craft wire
Black yarn or crochet cotton for the embroidery, I used black #10 crochet cotton (you could use embroidery thread, but you would need to use a full strand so it would work out pretty expensive)
Toy stuffing
A darning needle
A pair of scissors

Note:

'sc12' means 'sc in each of the next 12sts'
'fasten off neatly' refers to a special way of fastening off which is neater and makes it easier to see where you should be crocheting on the next round (also known as invisible fastening off). This involves pulling up your yarn through your stitch, threading the yarn underneath the second stitch from where you pulled your yarn up, then threading your yarn back through the top of this stitch and down through the back of the work. There is a very helpful site that explains it clearly found here. This is optional,but I find it makes the overall finish nicer.

So what is DNA?

DNA consists of 3 types of molecules: phosphate groups, a sugar called deoxyribose, and organic bases, which are what codes for all the proteins (see protein patterns) that make you up. These organic bases come in 4 different types, known as Cytosine, Adenine, Guanine, and Thymine, often referred to simply as C, A, G, and T respectively.

These pair up within the structure of the DNA, with cytosine bonding with guanine, and adenine bonding with thymine. This is what ensures that DNA replication occurs correctly; if there is a C base on one DNA strand (see DNA helix pattern for more info on the structure of DNA), then there must be a G base on the other strand.

Part 1: The DNA bases

For Guanine:
Make all sections using turquoise yarn
For the smaller section (make 2):
Make a magic loop with 5sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (10sc)
Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (15sc)
Round 3: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (20sc)
Round 4: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (25sc)
Round 5: sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6, (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times
Round 6: sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st (sc6, make 2sc in the next st) twice, sc7
Fasten off neatly

For the front:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc4, make 2sc in the next st, (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) twice, sc5, ch11, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, ch6, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, sc in the next 5 chain sts of the ch11 section, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch11, (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) twice
Round 6: sc5, make 2sc in the next st, (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) twice, sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, sc2tog between the back loop of the next 2 chain sts, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts. Make 2sc in the back of the last chain st, then make 2sc in the next st. Sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back loop of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, (sc5, make sc in the next st) twice
Round 7: sc6, make 2sc in the next st, sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, sc4, make 2sc in the next st, slip9, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc6, make 2sc in the next st
Fasten off neatly

For the back:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc5, ch11, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, ch6, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, sc in the next 5 chain sts of the ch11 section, (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) twice
Round 6: (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, sc2tog between the back loop of the next 2 chain sts, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts. Make 2sc in the back of the last chain st, then make 2sc in the next st. Sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back loop of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) twice, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, sc4, make 2sc in the next st, slip9, sc2tog, (sc3, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog) twice, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st), sc6
Fasten off neatly

Place the front section next to one of the smaller sections, as shown in the first photo, and sew them together. Do the same for the back section, but make sure that the sections are lines up as shown in the third photo before you sew them together (so that they are the mirror image of the front).

After this you will need to embroider the chemical symbols onto each of the sections of crochet, as shown below (this shows the front section, you should embroider the reverse symbols onto the back section). The structure of each of the bases is also given at the start of this pattern as an extra reference point. Note that for bases G and A this structure shows the BACK of the the bases (this is important to allow them to pair up correctly)

I made each of the long straight sections representing the bonds by making a long strand from the start of the bond to the end, then making a few very small stitches along its length to secure it in place. This is demonstrated in the photos below.

You should also embroider the letter 'G' onto the back section.

Use white embroidery thread to embroider highlights onto the eyes, then sew them to the head. I found that the effect was better if you used the 'wrong side' of the crochet to face outwards. After you've done this embroider a mouth onto your base.

Sew the front and back sections of the head together , stuffing as you do so. Sew them together using a close backstitch (or running stitch if you prefer) so that you keep the ridge on the outside of the crochet.

Fun fact 1:
Typing at 60 words per minute for 8 hours a day it would take 50 years to type the entire human genome.

For Adenine:
Use yellow yarn throughout
For the small section (make 2):
Make a magic loop with 5sc
Round 1: make 2sc in each st (10sc)
Round 2: (sc, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (15sc)
Round 3: (sc2, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (20sc)
Round 4: (sc3, make 2sc in the next st) 5 times (25sc)
Round 5: sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6, (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times
Round 6: sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) 4 times
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st (sc6, make 2sc in the next st) 3 times, sc7
Fasten off neatly

For the larger section (make 2):

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

You now need to embroider the chemical symbols in place. (It may be easier to use the image at the top of this pattern for the reference, since the photo below isn't ideal for showing whats going on.)

You should sew a letter 'A' onto the back section, similarly to how you did for guanine.

For the eyes (make 2):
With black ch3
Round 1: make 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, then make 3sc in the first chain st you made. Make 2sc into the back loop of the first chain st you crocheted into.
Fasten off

Use white embroidery thread to embroider highlights onto the eyes, then sew them to the head, as you have did for guanine. Sew a smile onto the face.

You will then need to sew the front and back sections together, stuffing firmly.

Fun fact 2:
Every human shares 99.9% of their DNA with every other human

How do the bases know who they should pair up with?
The pairing of the bases occurs due to attractions called hydrogen bonds that occur between the bases. Essentially the hydrogen atoms on the outside of one base are attracted to the oxygen/ nitrogen atoms on the outside of the base its paired with. Cytosine and Guanine can form 3 of these bonds between each other, whilst Adenine and Thymine can only form two. This is one factor that ensures they bond correctly.
Another factor is the shape the bases form when bonded together. As you may have noticed, the bases come in 2 different sizes. The smaller ones, Cytosine and Thymine, are known as pyrimidines, whereas Guanine and Adenine are classes as purines. The bonding of one pyrimidine with one purine endures that the overall structure formed has a very similar shape (as you should be able to see in the image below). This allows them to fit tightly together within the DNA strand. Any other bonding would not fit nicely within the DNA helix, meaning that it would be unstable, and would inevitably be ripped apart.

Additionally, this shape is able to fit neatly into the active site of the enzyme that creates DNA, known as DNA polymerase. (see enzyme pattern and possibly a pattern on DNA structure)

For Cytosine:

Use purple yarn throughout

For the front:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc5, ch11, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, ch6, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, sc in the next 5 chain sts of the ch11 section, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch11.(Sc4, make 2sc in the next st) twice, (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) twice, sc4, make 2sc in the next st
Round 6: sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, sc2tog between the back loop of the next 2 chain sts, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts. Make 2sc in the back of the last chain st, then make 2sc in the next st (the first one you made when crocheting into the chain sts of the previous round). Sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back loop of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc5, make 2sc in the next st, (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) twice, sc5, make 2sc in the next st
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, sc4, make 2sc in the next st, slip9, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc6, make 2sc in the next st, sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc3,sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the following st, slip1
Fasten off neatly

For the back:

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: sc5, ch11, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, ch6, sc in the 2nd loop from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, sc in the next 5 chain sts of the ch11 section, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch11. sc4, make 2sc in the next st, (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) twice, (sc4, make 2sc in the next st) twice
Round 6: sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, sc2tog between the back loop of the next 2 chain sts, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts. Make 2sc in the back of the last chain st, then make 2sc in the next st. Sc in the next 3 sts, sc2tog between the next st and the back of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back loop of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc5, make 2sc in the next st, (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) twice, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) twice
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc2, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip6, sc4, make 2sc in the next st, slip9, sc2tog sc5, make 2sc in the next st, sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, sc3, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, (sc5, make 2sc in the next st) twice
Fasten off neatly

Embroider the chemical symbols onto each of the sections of crochet, as you have done for the previous bases, following the embroidery on the crochet below (which, once again, shows the front section of the crochet). You should also embroider the letter 'C' onto the back section, as shown below in the 2nd photo.

For the eyes (Make 2):
With black ch3
Round 1: make 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, then make 3sc in the first chain st you made. Make 2sc into the back loop of the first chain st you crocheted into.
Fasten off

Use white embroidery thread to embroider highlights onto the eyes, then sew them to the head, as you have done for the previous bases

Sew the front and back sections of the bases together.

Fun fact 3:
Despite being much simpler organisms than humans, the gene of the aomeba is 200 times greater!

For Thymine:
Use dark pink yarn throughout
For the front and back (make 2):

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) 5 times, sc4, make 2sc in the last st
Round 6: (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) 5 times, sc5, make 2sc in the last st
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, (sc3, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog) 4 times, sc5, make 2sc in the last st
Fasten off neatly

You now need to sew the chemical symbols onto the bases, as you did for the previous bases. The structure of thymine is shown below, (and can once again be found at the start of this pattern if you are struggling to see it properly). Once again you should sew the reverse of this structure onto the back of the base, and sew a 'T' into the centre, as shown below.

For the eyes (Make 2):
With black ch3
Round 1: make 2sc in the 2nd loop from hook, then make 3sc in the first chain st you made. Make 2sc into the back loop of the first chain st you crocheted into.
Fasten off

Embroider highlights onto these and sew them onto the face, as you did for cytosine. Embroider the mouth in place underneath, then sew the front and back sections together, stuffing firmly as you do so.

But wait - that's not all the possible bases
A similar molecule to our DNA is RNA. This is a single-stranded molecule whose strands differ in two ways to those of DNA: firstly the sugar in the structure is ribose, not deoxyribose, but also because the base Thymine is replaced with a slightly different base known as Uracil, the pattern for which is given below.

For Uracil:
Use light pink yarn throughout
For the front and back (make 2):

Make a magic loop with 6sc

Round 1: make 2sc in each st (12sc)

Round 2: (sc in the first st, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (18sc)

Round 3: (sc in the first 2 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end. ch1, turn (24sc)
Round 4: (sc in the first 3 sts, make 2sc in the next st) 6 times to end (30sc)

Round 5: (sc5, ch6, sc in the 2nd chain st from hook, sc in the next 4 chain sts, then sc in the same st as the one you crocheted in before you made the ch6) 4 times, (sc4, make 2sc in the last st) twice
Round 6: (sc4, sc2tog between the next st and the back loop of the next chain st, sc in the back loop of the next 3 chain sts, make 2sc in the back of the last chain st. Make 2sc in the next st, sc3, sc2tog) 4 times, (sc5, make 2sc in the last st) twice
Round 7: sc4, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog, (sc3, sc2tog, sc3, make 2sc in the next st, slip5, sc2tog) 3 times, (sc5, make 2sc in the last st) twice
Fasten off neatly

You now need to sew the chemical symbols onto the bases. These are exactly the same as for Thymine, but without the single protruding line that symbolises a CH3 group (as you can see below)

Embroider highlights onto these and sew them onto the face, as you did for the previous bases. Embroider the mouth in place underneath, then sew the front and back sections together, stuffing firmly as you do so.

But why is Uracil present in RNA instead of Thymine?
When life first started, the genetic code was stored in RNA instead of DNA. However, this was inherently unstable, because of the presence of the OH group of the 2' position on the ribose sugar (link to another pattern that explains this further). When organisms became more complex RNA was replaced with DNA, which consisted of deoxyribose, in which this OH group was missing. Another form of instability came from the fact that certain mutations in DNA can result in cytosine bases undergoing a chemical process that changed them into uracil bases. Luckily, our clever cells evolved a DNA repair enzyme called DNA glycosylase (see enzyme pattern for more information on enzymes) to pick up on this and convert these mutated bases back into cytosine. This is why it is necessary that uracil is replaced with thymine, which has a very similar structure (so is still able to bind to adenine), but is not exactly the same. If uracil were present the DNA repair enzymes would go around converting all the uracil bases it found into cytosine, regardless of whether or not this is what they should actually be.

Part 2: The DNA helix

For the sugar-phosphate backbone (make 2):
With dark blue dk yarn ch9
Round 1: sc in the first chain st you made, then sc in every following chain st to make a loop
Round 2: sc in each of these 9 sts
Repeat round 2 until the backbone measures around 28cm

Fasten off

Information on the DNA backbone

This backbone of the DNA helix is made up of alternating molecules of phosphate and a sugar called deoxyribose. It is a strong structure that is not easily broken. The backbone strands have a polarity. This is different from the type of polarity you may have encountered in chemistry, but it gives us a way to specify the direction of the molecule. This polarity is determined by the direction of the deoxyribose molecules, and to see how this works we need to first examine the structure of these and how they fit together with the phosphate groups in the chain.

The deoxyribose sugar contains 5 carbon atoms, and they are numbered 1 - 5, with the first carbon atom being the one attached to the bases, and the 5th one being the side chain attached to the phosphate group. This means that the 3rd carbon atom will also be attached to a phosphate group. Therefore the DNA backbone is said to run from the 5' end (from the phosphate group attached to a carbon number 5) to the 3' end (i.e. the phosphate group attached to a carbon number 3). This gives the polarity of the strand. In DNA the two backbone strands run in opposite directions relative to each other, and this has important implications during processes such as DNA replication.

For the bases:

You need to make a total of 40 bases, and the number of G and C bases should be equal, as should the number of A and T bases.

With a 2mm hook make a magic loop with 5sc
Round 1 - 3: (3 rounds) sc in each st
Fasten of

To make up:

Sew the bases together in pairs (A with T, C with G)

Thread a length of wire through the backbone, and sew it to the edge so that it is held in place. This will keep the backbone rigid, so that the helix holds its shape better.

You will then need to sew the bases in place. Start by sewing one base pair to the bottom of the helix and another to the top, to ensure that the two backbone strands will match up.

After this you need to sew the remaining base pairs in between. Try to twist the helix as you sew them on, to ensure that it will keep its helix shape. You should try to get between 1.5 and 2 full turns into the length of the helix (technically it should be 2 turns but I found that this was very difficult to achieve).

The final stage is to assemble the mobile. Cut 3 lengths of white yarn approx. 25cm long and tie them at equal intervals to the edge of the embroidery hoop. Tie the other ends to each other in the centre of the loop. Secure the ends in place with a dab of PVA glue.

Next you need to sew another section of yarn to the centre of the hoop, to where you tied the three lengths of yarn together. Sew the other end of this to the helix, so that the centre of the nucleus hangs about 25cm below the embroidery hoop. You should then attach the cuddly bases around the outside so that they hang at varying lengths, as shown below.

That's all for this pattern! I hope you have found it interesting. As I said I plan to make a whole series of biochemistry-related patterns - please let me know if there's anything particular you'd like me to make. This applies especially to if there was anything mentioned in this post that you were unsure about or thought wasn't explained properly - I'm planning to do some patterns going into more detail about some of the topics mentioned.

Please let me know if you have any questions about this or any of my other patterns, either by leaving a comment below or via my Ravelry or Instagram pages.

You are very welcome to sell finished products but I do ask that you don't re-post this pattern or claim it as you're own. Thank you!

References:

thoughtco.com

factretriever.com

About this blog

Hello and welcome to my blog! I'm an engineering postgraduate with a passion for crochet and a great interest in anatomy. The mission of this blog is to try to inform people more about science, whilst also being fun and (hopefully) making it seem interesting. I hope that this blog will be accessible to people who don't necessarily have a background in science, as I try to explain things in as much detail as I can. If you have any questions, either about the crochet or about the science behind any of these patterns, please leave a comment or get in contact with me and I would love to help. Questions can be sent to lhodginscrochet@gmail.com, and you can also contact me there to request to be added to the email list for occasional newsletters (I promise I won't spam you!) You can also follow me on Instagram @anatomical_crochet to keep up to date with what I'm working on :)

Adventures into Anatomical Crochet

Pages

Saturday, March 7, 2026

Atomic orbitals

Saturday, March 1, 2025

Thalamus and hypothalamus

Thursday, June 13, 2024

DNA mobile

Part 1: The DNA bases

Part 2: The DNA helix

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